Gedeng: The Tea King Tree and Xinfazhai

Gedeng (革登) is the smallest of the Six Ancient Tea Mountains, yet it holds a record no other tea mountain has: Qing dynasty documents state plainly that there was a "tea king tree" here. The tree is long gone, but its story has kept Gedeng's name in tea history.

Where Is Gedeng Mountain?

Gedeng is in Xiangming Yi Ethnic Township, Mengla County, Xishuangbanna Prefecture, Yunnan, wedged between the Yibang and Mangzhi tea mountains; today its gardens are mostly within Anle Village, Xiangming Township. The common account in the tea world is that Gedeng faces Jinuo Mountain (Youle) across the river to the south and connects to Kongming Mountain to the east.

"Gedeng" is generally thought to be a Blang word meaning "a very high place." Another account ties the name to the legend of Kongming's (Zhuge Liang's) southern campaign, saying Kongming lost a stirrup (madeng) here and "madeng" shifted in sound to Gedeng. Place-name legends are everywhere, so take it lightly; the Blang explanation is the version more often cited.

The Gedeng tea mountain covers about 150 square kilometers, the smallest of the Six Ancient Tea Mountains, and it has the smallest area of surviving ancient gardens too. Estimates vary widely, from under 500 mu to as much as 1,000 mu for a single village; what's certain is that Gedeng's old trees are scattered, not in continuous stands like those of Manzhuan or Yiwu.

The Story of Gedeng's Tea King Tree

The Daoguang-era Pu'er Prefecture Gazetteer and Ruan Fu's Pu'er Cha Ji both record the same thing: on Gedeng Mountain there was a tea king tree, taller and larger than the trees around it, and every picking season locals would first bring wine to pay homage to it before starting to pick.

This is the only tea king tree among the Six Ancient Tea Mountains recorded in formal Qing documents. Folk accounts go further:

• Planted by Kongming: Tea farmers believed this tree was planted by Kongming, and revered it all the more.
• Astonishing yield: Legend says a single spring season produced a full dan (a shoulder-pole load) of dry tea.
• A tradition of homage: Every year before the spring harvest, tea farmers from several nearby mountains came to pay homage.

The tea king tree died long ago, and accounts of exactly when vary. It's generally thought to have stood near Bajiaoshu Village, and after its roots rotted away they left a large pit that can still be seen today. A tree that vanished long ago became Gedeng's most famous "sight" precisely because it was written into a local gazetteer. For other famous tea king trees in Yunnan, read Yunnan's Famous Tea King Trees.

Gedeng's Rise and Fall

Gedeng was at its height during the Qianlong reign of the Qing dynasty; the tea world often says Gedeng Old Village then had 200–300 households and a considerable area of gardens. During the Xianfeng reign, unrest broke out in neighboring Mangzhi, Gedeng was caught up in it, and much of its population scattered; by the late Qing and early Republic, the old village was almost deserted.

This history is also why Gedeng's ancient gardens are so scarce: the people left, the gardens went wild, and many old trees disappeared into the forest. The ancient trees you see in Gedeng today often grow among mixed woods and bamboo, carrying a strong wild-mountain character. The overall rise and fall of the Six Tea Mountains is covered more fully in The Rise and Fall of the Six Tea Mountains.

Where Are Xinfazhai and Zhibeng?

When people talk about Gedeng tea today, the two village names you'll hear most are:

• Xinfazhai (新發寨): Part of Anle Village, Xiangming Township, it's the transit point into the Gedeng tea area, reachable by car. Xinfazhai and the nearby Xinjiufang area are among Gedeng's main tea-producing areas today.
• Zhibeng (直蚌): Also part of Anle Village, about a 40-minute walk from Xinfazhai. Zhibeng's ancient garden is considered the best-preserved in Gedeng, with taller trees, and much of the "Gedeng ancient tree" on the market comes from here.

Neither village is large, and output is limited, which is why Gedeng tea is rarely seen on the market.

What Does Gedeng Tea Taste Like?

Gedeng's large-leaf tea has sturdy buds and plenty of white down; locals call it "da bai cha" (big white tea). The impression it gives is roughly:

• Aroma: Pronounced floral-fruity notes and a good lingering cup-bottom aroma.
• Taste: Little noticeable bitterness or astringency, bitterness carrying sweetness, a smooth liquor.
• Mountain character: Tea drinkers often say Gedeng tea has plenty of "wild-mountain" character, with a cooling feeling in the throat.
• Huigan: Comes quickly, with good salivation.

Because output is small, genuine Gedeng tea isn't easy to buy. To get a sense of its personality, drink it side by side with Yibang or Mangzhi: 6 grams each in a 110 ml gaiwan, boiling water, pouring off the first 3 infusions after 10 seconds, and compare how high the aroma is and how strong the wild-mountain character. For brewing young tea, see How to Brew Young Raw Pu'er.

FAQ

Is Gedeng's tea king tree still standing? No. The tea king tree died long ago, and all that remains is the large pit left after its roots rotted away.

Is Gedeng the smallest of the Six Tea Mountains? Yes. At about 150 square kilometers, Gedeng is the smallest of the Six Ancient Tea Mountains and has the fewest ancient gardens.

How does Gedeng tea differ from Yibang tea? Yibang is known for the delicate fragrance and sweetness of small-leaf varieties; Gedeng is mainly large-leaf, with sturdy buds and a more obvious wild-mountain character. Yibang is introduced in Yibang and Mansong.

Does Zhibeng tea count as Gedeng tea? Yes. Zhibeng is a village on the Gedeng tea mountain, part of Anle Village, Xiangming Township, and it's where Gedeng's ancient gardens are best preserved.