How to Brew Young Raw Pu'er: Taming Bitterness and Astringency
Young raw tea means raw pu'er that's freshly made and hasn't been stored long, generally said to be raw tea within 3–5 years. It has floral, honey, and wild mountain notes and a bright yellow-green liquor; it's a tea at its "freshest." At the same time, its bitterness and astringency are at their most direct. The trick to brewing young raw tea well points in just one direction: rein in the bitterness and astringency and let the sweetness and aroma come forward.
Why Young Raw Tea Is Bitter
The bitterness and astringency of young raw tea come mainly from tea polyphenols, catechins, and caffeine. Raw tea hasn't gone through wodui, so most of these constituents are still there and only transform slowly with storage; that's why the same tea is noticeably bitter and astringent when new and turns rounded after a few years. Origin matters too: tea from around Bulang Mountain and Lao Man'e is known for its strength and bitter backbone, while Bingdao and Yiwu are known for sweetness and softness. For the difference between bitterness and astringency, read Bitterness and Astringency.
In good young raw tea, bitterness and astringency melt within a few seconds and turn into huigan; if they stay stuck on your tongue, adjust how you brew.
Four Ways to Rein In Bitterness
1. Use a Little Less Leaf
5–6 grams in a 110 ml gaiwan, 1–2 grams less than for ripe pu'er. For strong-style teas you can go a bit lower still.
2. Gentler Water
Ordinary young raw tea takes 95–100°C; when bitterness and astringency are noticeable, lower it to 90–95°C, and use 85–90°C for tender tea with lots of buds. There's no need to warm the vessel; let the water cool a little naturally. Water temperature details are in Water Temperature.
3. Pour Off Faster
This is the most effective trick. For the first 3 infusions, pour off as soon as the gaiwan is filled, at 5–10 seconds; after that, add 3–5 seconds per infusion. Pour when the liquor reaches pale gold; don't wait.
4. Keep the Water Off the Leaves
Pour low along the side of the bowl with a thinner stream, letting the water seep into the leaves gradually. See Pouring Technique.
Suitable Teaware
- White porcelain gaiwan: the first choice. It cools quickly, doesn't absorb smells, and shows the liquor color and spent leaves clearly. Thinner walls are even better.
- Glass gaiwan or glass teapot: also cools quickly and lets you watch the leaves unfurl.
- Thin-walled porcelain teapot: an option for those who prefer a pot.
- Yixing pot: it holds heat well and easily stews young raw tea into bitterness and astringency, so it's better suited to ripe pu'er and aged tea; if you do use one, choose a small zhuni pot that pours faster.
A Small Step After Each Pour
Drain fully after every infusion, then set the gaiwan lid at an angle or remove it so the leaves can cool; tea drinkers call this "airing the tea" (liangcha). Young raw tea hates being stewed; if the leaves stay wrapped in heat, the next infusion will have a stewed, cooked taste.
A Starting Setup for Young Raw Tea
| Item | Sweet, soft style (Bingdao, Yiwu, etc.) | Strong style (Bulang Mountain, etc.) |
|---|---|---|
| Leaf in a 110 ml gaiwan | 6–7 g | 5–6 g |
| Water temperature | 95–100°C | 90–95°C |
| Rinse | Once, 5 seconds | Once, 3–5 seconds |
| Infusions 1–3 | About 10 seconds | 5–8 seconds |
| Infusion 4 onward | Add 5 seconds each | Add 3–5 seconds each |
Other Ways to Drink Young Raw Tea
- Cold brew: cold water extracts bitter and astringent constituents slowly, so cold-brewed young raw tea is fresh and sweet, and it's where many people first fall for raw pu'er. The method is in Cold-Brewed Pu'er.
- Light brew in a large cup: 2–3 grams in a 300 ml mug, strained after 1–2 minutes.
- Stewing or long boiling not recommended: steeped in a thermos or boiled for a long time, young raw tea easily becomes bitter and astringent.
Who Young Raw Tea Suits
People who like the fresh fragrance of oolong and green tea often fall for sweet, soft young raw tea at the first sip. Guyuntang's Bingdao Old Village Dragon Pearls are raw pu'er, 8 grams each; for brewing, see How to Brew Dragon Pearls.
Holding On to Young Raw Tea's Aroma
What's most captivating about young raw tea is its aroma. There are three moments to smell it: shake the dry leaves after adding them and smell the dry aroma; lift the lid after the rinse and smell the wet leaves; and after drinking, smell the lingering aroma at the bottom of the cup. You can use an aroma cup or simply smell the gaiwan lid. Let the liquor cool a little before drinking, and the sweetness will be more noticeable than right after pouring.
FAQ
What if young raw tea tastes very bitter? Use 1–2 grams less leaf, lower the water to 90–95°C, pour off the first few infusions at 5–10 seconds, and pour along the side of the bowl.
Should water be a bit cooler for young raw tea? For the sweet, soft style, 95–100°C is fine; for noticeably bitter tea, lower it to 90–95°C, and use 85–90°C for tender tea with lots of buds.
What teaware suits young raw tea? A white porcelain or glass gaiwan is best, cooling quickly and showing everything clearly; Yixing pots hold heat well and are better suited to ripe pu'er and aged tea.
Any tips for pouring off quickly? Pour off as soon as it's filled, pour when the liquor reaches pale gold, drain each infusion, and lift the lid after pouring to let the leaves cool.