Xigui: Ancient Tea Gardens on the Lancang River
Among the famous mountains of pu'er, Xigui stands out. Most famous mountains sit above 1,500 meters, but Xigui's ancient tea gardens lie beside the Lancang River at an altitude of only about 700–950 meters.
Where Is Xigui?
Xigui Village (昔歸) is in Bangdong Township, Linxiang District, Lincang City, Yunnan Province, and its tea gardens are mainly on Manglu Mountain next to the village. Manglu Mountain sits on the eastern foothills of Bangdong Daxue Mountain, facing the Lancang River; it catches the morning sun and falls into shade in the late afternoon.
Low Altitude, Yet Great Tea
It's commonly believed that good tea comes from high, misty places, but Xigui is the exception. The reason is its unusual environment:
- River mist: The Lancang River valley is humid, and mist often hangs over the water. Sunlight is diffused as it passes through, so the light that reaches the tea trees is soft.
- Warm climate: The valley is relatively warm, giving the tea trees a long growing season.
- Soil: Most of the gardens are on lateritic red soil mixed with small gravel, which drains well and is slightly acidic. Locals call it "sheep's-liver stone" ground.
These conditions give Xigui tea rich compounds and a full, intense taste.
The Flavor of Xigui Tea
- Dry leaf: Tightly twisted, glossy dark leaves.
- Liquor color: Bright, clear gold.
- Aroma: High and sharp, often described as having orchid and honey notes.
- Taste: Strong and full, with a little astringency on entry that dissolves very quickly.
- Huigan and mouthwatering: A fast, long-lasting huigan (the sweet aftertaste) and a deep throat feel (houyun).
Many people drinking Xigui for the first time are drawn in by its aroma and sweetness; in the later infusions, they start to notice its thick, substantial texture.
Xigui and Bingdao
Xigui and Bingdao both belong to Lincang and are often compared:
| Bingdao | Xigui | |
|---|---|---|
| Location | Mengku Town, Shuangjiang County | Bangdong Township, Linxiang District |
| Altitude | About 1,400–2,000 m | About 700–950 m |
| Impression | Sweet, soft, rock-sugar aroma | High aroma, full-bodied, orchid notes |
Both are famous for fragrance and sweetness. Bingdao's sweetness leans delicate and gentle, while Xigui's aroma leans lifted and its taste fuller. Drinking them side by side is the best way to appreciate the diversity of Lincang tea.
Brewing Tips
Xigui tea is full-bodied, so you can use 7–8 g of tea in a 110 ml gaiwan with boiling water, pouring off the first few infusions after about 10 seconds. If the astringency feels pronounced, just shorten the steeping time; you won't lose any aroma or sweetness.
Manglu Mountain and the Surrounding Area
Xigui's ancient tea gardens are concentrated on Manglu Mountain, where most of the tea trees grow on steep slopes facing the Lancang River. Other trees grow among the old tea trees; the gardens are small and output is limited.
Bangdong Township, where Xigui is located, has many other tea gardens, also spread along the Lancang River or Bangdong Daxue Mountain. Tea from these gardens is sometimes compared with Xigui, but true Xigui tea refers to the ancient tea gardens around Manglu Mountain. When choosing, a clear origin matters more than the name.
How Xigui Tea Ages
Xigui tea is full-bodied and rich in compounds, and it is generally considered well suited to storage. Over a few years, the high aroma and sweetness of the young tea become more settled, the liquor shifts from gold toward orange-yellow, and the texture grows mellower and fuller.
The Rhythm of Drinking Xigui
- First few infusions: The aroma is at its highest, with clear orchid and honey notes; the brew has a little astringency, but it dissolves quickly.
- Middle infusions: The texture is at its fullest, sweetness is high, and the huigan and mouthwatering effect are strongest.
- Later infusions: The sweetness lingers, and longer steeps still give good flavor.
A Closer Look at Xigui's Location and Environment
Xigui Village belongs to Bangdong Township, Linxiang District, Lincang City, and its ancient tea gardens are concentrated on Manglu Mountain on the west bank of the Lancang River. The altitude here is around 750 meters, making it one of the lowest of Yunnan's famous ancient tea gardens. Most of the old tea trees are around two hundred years old; compared with Bingdao and Jingmai, where trees are often several hundred years old, it's a "young" ancient tea garden, yet it has made its name with high aroma and smooth sweetness.
A Year in a Riverside Tea Garden
- Spring: Moisture and morning mist from the river slow the growth of the buds, so spring tea is full in flavor.
- Summer: In the rainy season the river rises and temperatures are high; the tea trees grow quickly, and summer tea is lighter in taste.
- Fall and winter: The dry season brings plenty of sunshine, the gardens grow quiet, and the tea trees rest.
Xigui and the Teas of Lincang
Xigui and Bingdao are both in Lincang, but one sits at low altitude on the Lancang River and the other at mid-to-high altitude on the west side of Mengku Daxue Mountain. Both excel in sweetness and aroma, but Xigui's aroma is more lifted and its taste fuller, while Bingdao's sweetness is softer and its texture silkier. Lincang's tea trees are mainly large-leaf varieties such as Mengku large-leaf; the cultivars are introduced in Mengku, Menghai, Fengqing: Yunnan's Three National Large-Leaf Cultivars.
How to Brew Xigui Even Better
Xigui has a high aroma and a full taste. Here's a good starting point:
| Item | Suggestion |
|---|---|
| Tea for a 110 ml gaiwan | 6–7 g |
| Water temperature | 95–100°C |
| Rinse | Once, 5 seconds |
| Infusions 1–3 | 8–10 seconds |
| Infusion 4 onward | Add 5 seconds each time |
With high-aroma teas, it's best to smell the lid right after pouring and take your first sip while the tea is hot; take another sip once it has cooled to warm, and the sweetness will be even more noticeable.
Xigui's Reputation and Output
Xigui's ancient tea gardens are small and spring output is limited; as its fame has grown in recent years, prices have climbed with it. Plenty of teas on the market carry the "Xigui" name, so when buying, ask about the exact garden location and season. More tips are in Six Tips for Buying Pu'er.
Xigui and the Lancang River
Around Xigui, the Lancang River cuts a deep valley, and moisture over the water forms mist in the early morning that blankets the riverside tea gardens. Warm, humid, with gentle sunlight: this is one reason low-altitude Xigui can grow good tea.
FAQ
Which is sweeter, Xigui or Bingdao? Both are known for sweetness. Bingdao's sweetness leans delicate and gentle, while Xigui's leans rich and comes with a lifted aroma. People who love refinement tend to prefer Bingdao, while those who like aroma and strength are drawn to Xigui.
How can low altitude still produce good tea? Tea quality depends on many conditions, and altitude is only one of them. Xigui's river mist, warm climate, and distinctive soil produce excellent tea all the same.
How old are Xigui's ancient tea trees? The common view is that most are around two hundred years old, younger than those on some famous mountains, but the tea's aroma and sweetness are highly regarded.