Jingdong and Wuliangshan: Between the Ailao and Wuliang Mountains

Open a map of Yunnan and in the west-central part you'll see two roughly parallel ranges running from northwest to southeast: Wuliangshan (無量山) to the west and the Ailao Mountains (哀牢山) to the east. Jingdong Yi Autonomous County in Pu'er City is sandwiched between them, and the Lancang River cuts a deep gorge along the county's west side. The "Wuliangshan tea" tea drinkers talk about mostly comes from this area.

Where Is Wuliangshan?

Wuliangshan lies within Yunnan, running through Nanjian in Dali Prefecture and Jingdong, Zhenyuan, Jinggu, and other parts of Pu'er City. Its main peak, Maotoushan, is in Jingdong County at 3,306 meters. The mountain is mainly limestone and sandstone, its forests are well preserved, and it's wrapped in mist much of the year. Many people first hear of "Wuliangshan" in Jin Yong's novel Demi-Gods and Semi-Devils, but the real Wuliangshan is a tea mountain.

The northern section of Wuliangshan is in Nanjian County, Dali Prefecture; the story of Nanjian tea and Xiaguan tuocha is in Dehong, Wenshan, Dali, Honghe, Yuxi: Other Tea Areas in the Protected Zone.

Jingdong: A County Between Two Mountains

Jingdong Yi Autonomous County belongs to Pu'er City, covering 4,455 square kilometers with a 2020 population of about 303,100; the county government is in Jinping Town. In the Qing dynasty this was Jingdong Directly Administered Subprefecture; it became Jingdong County in 1913 and formally became a Yi autonomous county on December 20, 1985.

Within pu'er's geographical indication protected area, Jingdong is one of Pu'er City's ten counties and districts. The townships listed when it was announced in 2008 were Jinping, Wenjing, Manwan, Dachaoshan East, Huashan, Dajie, Taizhong, Longjie, Wenlong, Anding, Linjie, Jingfu, and Man, which means all 13 townships in the county are included. The full list of the protected area is in The Geographical Indication Protected Area: 11 Prefectures, 75 Counties.

What Defines Jingdong Tea

Jingdong's gardens run from the river valley along the Lancang up the slopes of the Wuliang and Ailao mountains, including terrace gardens as well as old trees scattered around villages. Jingdong tea on the market often appears under the name "Wuliangshan."

The tea world commonly describes Wuliangshan tea as having:

• Aroma: Clean and lifting, with floral and honey notes and an obvious cup-bottom aroma;
• Texture: Soft, fine, and smooth on entry;
• Bitterness and astringency: Relatively restrained, clearing quickly;
• Huigan: Steady and lasting, not especially intense.

These are general impressions. Even under the same Wuliangshan name, valley versus high mountain, ancient tree versus terrace, spring versus autumn all taste different; when buying, asking which township and which season is more useful than just looking at the word "Wuliangshan."

How Wuliangshan Tea Differs from Banna Tea

Wuliangshan is farther north than Banna, with higher mountains and cooler temperatures, so tea trees grow a bit more slowly; this is the reason tea drinkers often give for the difference in style. Menghai and Yiwu are introduced in Menghai and Lao Banzhang and Yiwu Zhengshan; regional style descriptions are in Menghai Style, Yiwu Style, Lincang Style.

Do the Ailao Mountains Grow Tea Too?

Yes. The Ailao Mountains are an offshoot of the Yunling range, about 450 kilometers long and 15–30 kilometers wide, covering about 10,000 square kilometers across 16 counties and districts in five prefectures and cities: Dali, Chuxiong, Yuxi, Pu'er, and Honghe. They form the watershed between the Yuan River and the Amo and Babian rivers, and the highest peak, the north peak of Daxueguoshan, is 3,165.9 meters. In 1988, a national nature reserve was established in the northern section of the Ailao Mountains.

There are quite a few tea-related places in the Ailao Mountains:

• Qianjiazhai, Zhenyuan: The reserve holds stretches of wild tea trees, the most famous being the Qianjiazhai wild ancient tea king tree; see Zhenyuan's Qianjiazhai: The Wild Tea King Tree.
• The Tea Horse Road: The Ailao Mountains Tea Horse Road in Heping Town, Zhenyuan, is listed as a Major Historical and Cultural Site Protected at the National Level; Xinping County in Yuxi also has Tea Horse Road sites at Ailaoshan and Yinggepo. Further reading: The Tea Horse Road.
• Gardens on both slopes: The mountainsides east of Jingdong and around Zhenyuan and Xinping all have tea gardens, mostly making sun-dried maocha.

How to Drink Wuliangshan Tea

Wuliangshan tea has a clean aroma and a soft texture, so you can go with: 6–7 grams in a 110 ml gaiwan, water at 95–100°C, pouring off the first 3 infusions after 8–10 seconds, then adding 5 seconds per infusion. With aromatic teas, it's best to smell the lid right after pouring, then take the first sip while it's hot. To compare regions, brew a Wuliangshan tea and a Menghai tea side by side with the same parameters, and the differences will be very clear.

FAQ

Q: Where is Wuliangshan?
A: In west-central Yunnan, running through Nanjian in Dali Prefecture and Jingdong, Zhenyuan, Jinggu, and other parts of Pu'er City; its main peak, Maotoushan, is in Jingdong County at 3,306 meters.

Q: What defines Jingdong tea?
A: The tea world often describes it as having a clean, lifting aroma, a soft texture, lower bitterness and astringency, and a steady huigan; the actual style still depends on village, tree age, and season.

Q: How does Wuliangshan tea differ from Banna tea?
A: Wuliangshan is farther north, higher, and cooler, and its tea generally gives an impression of clean aroma and soft liquor; Menghai tea is mostly intense, with noticeable bitterness and astringency and a strong huigan, while Yiwu tea leans soft and sweet.

Q: Do the Ailao Mountains grow tea too?
A: Yes. The slopes of the Ailao Mountains around Zhenyuan, Jingdong, and Xinping all have tea gardens, and Qianjiazhai in Zhenyuan also has famous wild ancient tea trees.