Tea Ancestors, Tea Rituals, and Tea Festivals
In the city, tea is a beverage; on Yunnan's tea mountains, tea trees are like family, like ancestors. The peoples who have grown tea for generations believe all things have spirits, tea trees included. Before picking, they make offerings to thank the trees for what they give, and every spring there are grand celebrations. These beliefs and rituals are the most moving part of tea mountain culture.
What Is a Tea Soul Tree?
In the ancient tea gardens of Jingmai Mountain and elsewhere, you'll often see one special tea tree that locals call the "tea soul tree" (茶魂樹). The tea soul tree is seen as the dwelling place of the spirit that guards the whole garden. Common customs include:
- Each garden chooses one tea tree as its tea soul tree, usually one of the oldest and sturdiest in the garden.
- A simple shrine is set up beside it, with offerings placed there.
- Before the picking season begins, offerings are made before the tea soul tree, praying for a bountiful harvest and safe picking.
- The tea soul tree's leaves aren't picked casually, or are picked only during rituals.
This outlook makes the tea garden not just a place of production, but a living community to be respected and cared for. When Jingmai Mountain was inscribed as World Heritage, this belief in living in harmony with nature was one of the cultural values recognized; see Jingmai Mountain.
How Do Tea Farmers Make Offerings to Tea?
Tea rituals vary among peoples and villages, but common elements include:
- Offerings: Rice, glutinous rice, wax candles, fresh flowers, liquor, tea leaves, and so on.
- Places: Beneath the tea soul tree, at the village heart, at an altar, or at the household shrine.
- Officiants: Village elders, ritual specialists, or senior family members.
- Timing: Mostly before the spring harvest begins, on important holidays, or after a good harvest.
The ritual usually includes reciting blessings, presenting offerings, and praying for the tea trees to flourish; sometimes the whole village takes part.
Are There Rituals for Opening the Harvest?
Yes. On many tea mountains, an "opening the mountain" or "opening the harvest" ceremony is held before spring picking begins, announcing the start of a new tea season. The ceremonies vary by place, but roughly: offerings are made to the tea ancestor or tea soul tree, an elder or representative picks the first leaves, and then the whole village begins picking.
The timing depends on each mountain's phenology. Yunnan's spring tea is mostly picked from March to May; lower, warmer tea mountains start earlier and high-elevation ones later, so "harvest-opening festivals" have no fixed date and shift with the weather each year. The timing of spring tea is covered in Spring, Summer, and Autumn Tea.
The Tea Ancestor and the Shankang Tea Ancestor Festival
The Bulang revere Pa Aileng as their tea ancestor. Legend says he led his people to settle around Jingmai Mountain and left the teaching to "leave tea trees to your descendants." Each year during the spring tea season, the Bulang of Mangjing Village on Jingmai Mountain hold the "Shankang Tea Ancestor Festival" to honor the tea ancestor, give thanks to the tea trees, and welcome the new year. The festival features rituals, songs and dances, and various activities, and in recent years it has drawn many visitors. Pa Aileng's story is in The Bulang People's Tea.
In addition, the tea world also has a tradition of revering Zhuge Liang as a "tea ancestor": a legend in some parts of Yunnan says Kongming planted tea trees there during his southern campaign, and some tea mountains make offerings to "Kongming," with related festivals called the "Tea Ancestor Gathering" or "Kongming Gathering." This is folk legend with no firm historical proof, but it reflects the reverence for tea among the Han and other peoples of the tea mountains.
What These Beliefs Mean
- Gratitude: Tea is the tea farmers' livelihood, and tea rituals express thanks for what nature gives.
- Reverence: Believing tea trees have spirits means not over-picking or felling them carelessly.
- Community: Making offerings and picking tea together brings the village closer.
- Continuity: Through rituals and stories, younger generations learn where tea comes from.
These seemingly simple beliefs have, to some extent, protected ancient tea trees and the surrounding forests, so that we can still drink ancient-tree tea today.
What Tea Festivals Does Yunnan Have?
| Festival | Location | Approximate timing | Content |
|---|---|---|---|
| China Pu'er Tea Festival | Pu'er City | Mostly in spring | Tea expos, forums, cultural events |
| Shankang Tea Ancestor Festival | Mangjing Village, Jingmai Mountain | Around April each year | Bulang offerings to the tea ancestor, songs and dances |
| Harvest-opening ceremonies on each mountain | Villages on each tea mountain | Before the spring harvest, mostly March–April | Offerings to the tea soul tree, picking the first leaves |
| Tea Ancestor Gathering (Kongming Gathering) | Some tea mountains | According to local custom | Offerings to the legendary tea ancestor |
In addition, Yunnan's prefectures and cities often hold tea expos, tea competitions, and the like, with dates and names that may change from year to year.
One of the liveliest tea events in the growing regions in recent years is the Yiwu Tea Competition (Yiwu Doucha Dahui) in Mengla County, Xishuangbanna. It's usually held each April–May, once the spring tea is finished, with contests in tea picking, handmade tea, and raw material evaluation, ending with the selection and auction of a Tea King; the 2026 edition was the 14th. How the competition is judged and how to read the awards is covered in Tea Competitions and Tea Kings.
Around the world, tea drinkers also share a common day: International Tea Day, May 21 each year. The UN General Assembly established it through Resolution 74/241, adopted on December 21, 2019, and the Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations (FAO) leads its promotion; 2020 was the first official celebration. Its aim is to help more people get to know where tea comes from and the people who grow it, and to promote sustainable tea production and consumption.
Where Is the Pu'er Tea Festival Held?
The China Pu'er Tea Festival is held in Pu'er City, Yunnan, which was called Simao City before 2007. The first edition is generally recorded as the "China Pu'er Tea Festival" held in 1993, followed by many more editions featuring tea exhibitions and sales, academic forums, cultural performances, and more. The years and dates aren't fixed, so if you'd like to attend, check official local announcements before you go. The origin of the name pu'er is covered in Where the Name "Pu'er" Comes From.
When Is the Harvest-Opening Festival?
"Harvest-opening festival" (開采節, often written 開採節 in Taiwan) refers generally to the ceremonies or events held when spring tea picking begins on a tea mountain. Because each mountain's phenology differs, there's no unified date across Yunnan; it generally falls in March–April when spring tea begins to bud, and some villages choose an auspicious day according to the traditional calendar. If you'd like to attend, ask the local village or tea farmers first; see Visiting Yunnan's Tea Mountains.
FAQ
How do tea farmers make offerings to tea? Offerings such as rice, wax candles, fresh flowers, and tea leaves are presented beneath the tea soul tree or at an altar, with an elder leading prayers for a good harvest, mostly before the spring harvest begins.
What is a tea soul tree? A tea tree chosen as the guardian spirit of a garden, with a shrine beside it; offerings are made before it ahead of the harvest, and it isn't picked casually.
What tea festivals does Yunnan have? The China Pu'er Tea Festival in Pu'er City, the Shankang Tea Ancestor Festival in Mangjing Village on Jingmai Mountain, harvest-opening ceremonies on each tea mountain, and more.
Where is the Pu'er Tea Festival held? In Pu'er City, Yunnan (formerly Simao). The first edition is generally recorded as 1993; dates aren't fixed, so check official announcements.
When is the harvest-opening festival? There's no unified date; it depends on when spring tea buds on each mountain, mostly in March–April.